{"id":1836,"date":"2026-10-01T16:34:02","date_gmt":"2026-10-01T22:34:02","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/?post_type=resource-cpt&#038;p=1836"},"modified":"2026-10-01T16:34:32","modified_gmt":"2026-10-01T22:34:32","slug":"boulder-county-rural-living-resource-guide-livestock","status":"publish","type":"resource-cpt","link":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/resource\/boulder-county-rural-living-resource-guide-livestock\/","title":{"rendered":"Boulder County Rural Living Resource Guide: Livestock"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<nav class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links is-style-table-of-contents container container--narrow\"><div class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__outer-container\"><div class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__container\"><button class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__label\" aria-expanded=\"true\">Table of Contents<svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" viewBox=\"0 0 24 24\" width=\"24\" height=\"24\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><path d=\"M17.5 11.6L12 16l-5.5-4.4.9-1.2L12 14l4.5-3.6 1 1.2z\"><\/path><\/svg><\/button><div class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__links-container\"><ul class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__links\"><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Introduction\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Introduction<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Colorado-Fence-and-Trespass-Law\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Colorado Fence and Trespass Law<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Construction-and-Maintenance-of-&quot;Lawful-Fence&quot;\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Construction and Maintenance of &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221;<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Livestock-Trespass\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Livestock Trespass<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Poisonous-Plants-for-Livestock\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Poisonous Plants for Livestock<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Livestock-Handling\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Livestock Handling<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Brand-Inspection\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Brand Inspection<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Biosecurity\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Biosecurity<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Manure-Management\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Manure Management<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Livestock-and-Adverse-Weather\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Livestock and Adverse Weather<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Livestock-Species-Information\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Livestock Species Information<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Beef-Cattle\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Beef Cattle<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Dairy-Cattle\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Dairy Cattle<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Horses\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Horses<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Poultry\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Poultry<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Swine\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Swine<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Sheep\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Sheep<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Goats\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Goats<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Llamas-and-Alpacas\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Llamas and Alpacas<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Rabbits\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Rabbits<\/a><\/li><li class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__item\"><a href=\"#Bees\" class=\"wp-block-csu-quick-section-links__link\">Bees<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/nav>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group wp-block-pattern-longform-content is-vertical is-layout-flex wp-container-core-group-is-layout-dc0c0d66 wp-block-group-is-layout-flex\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this section, we\u2019ll provide some basic information and resources for various livestock species.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h3 id=\"Introduction\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Introduction<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One of the first things to consider when entertaining the idea of raising domestic livestock is<br>whether the enterprise you are considering is compatible with your lifestyle, the community<br>you live in and your property. Is your property zoned for large animal production? How many<br>animals can you legally have? How much forage does your property produce or does your<br>property support? How much money do you have to purchase hay? How will your neighbors<br>react to your project?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock ownership is a 24\/7, 365 day a year proposition. If you need to be away from the<br>property, you must have someone lined up and trained to care for your livestock while you are<br>away. You must be prepared to take care of the animals in all conditions, evacuate them in<br>emergencies, and provide veterinary care for them. If your property does not produce enough<br>forage or during drought you must be financially able to purchase additional feed or be<br>prepared to sell some or all of your animals possibly at a loss. Depending on your reason for<br>purchasing the livestock, you must be prepared to slaughter them or to take care of a carcass<br>when they die. There are rules for burying carcasses on your property. Check with the<br>Colorado Department of Agriculture or Boulder County Public Health for information. There<br>are also rendering and disposal companies that haul carcasses off for a fee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">All livestock properties should have biosecurity (how you prevent disease from coming on to<br>the property or manage spread once it is onsite), emergency preparedness and evacuation<br>plans. The Extension Office can help develop these plans.<br><br>Some acreages are only suitable for forage production while others are suitable for limited<br>grazing. If you have irrigation water available, you might be in a situation where you can<br>handle a relatively small number of livestock. Depending on the vegetation on your property<br>and irrigation water, the average amount of land to support 1 cow or horse is 25-40 acres<br>without supplemental feed for a year. Land Use Codes may allow you more animals per acre<br>than the land can support. A corral, sacrifice area or dry lot, must be available to keep the<br>animals in when irrigating, and when the pasture needs rest from grazing. If there is adequate<br>acreage, you might consider raising some of your own forage. Realize that it is expensive to<br>own and maintain forage harvesting equipment that is only used once or twice a year. While it<br>may not be economically feasible to own equipment, bringing in custom operators may be<br>an option.<br><br>If you decide you want to raise livestock to sell the meat or wool make sure that you have<br>done your market research and know your market prior to purchasing the animals. You need<br>to know the food regulations for processing meat. Any meat that you plan to sell to the public<br>(i.e. at a farmer&#8217;s market) needs to have been processed at a USDA inspected facility. If you<br>are producing only for family or through a CSA (Community Supported Agriculture), those<br>rules and regulations are different. Take the time to investigate your options and the<br>regulations prior to purchasing the livestock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Wildlife and pets do not always mix with livestock. You may need to improve enclosures to<br>keep pets and wildlife out of livestock areas or invest in a guard animal such as a llama or<br>dog to protect your livestock.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Livestock Healthcare<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Prior to purchasing your livestock, identify and develop a relationship with a veterinarian in<br>your area that treats your livestock species. You may want them to visit your property either<br>before or just after you get your livestock to check out your facility or to check out the<br>livestock prior to purchase. Building a relationship with the veterinarian prior to the midnight<br>emergency call is essential.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>With any livestock, follow the recommendations of your veterinarian concerning<br>vaccinations, wormings and other healthcare issues. In addition to identifying a veterinarian,<br>you may need to identify a farrier for horses, someone to trim hooves for goats, llamas and<br>alpacas and a shearer. You can learn to take care of vaccinations, wormings and hoof<br>trimming yourself if this interests you. Talk to other livestock owners in your area to see who<br>they use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Water Quality for Livestock<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Although most livestock can tolerate water quality that may be unsuitable for human<br>consumption, very poor water quality can impact livestock health, reproduction and<br>performance. If the water quality of your livestock&#8217;s drinking water is unknown, it should be<br>tested for salinity, pH, sulfate, nitrate and potential toxic elements such as selenium.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">National Center for Appropriate Technology Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/attra.ncat.org\/livestock-and-pasture\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/attra.ncat.org\/livestock-and-pasture\/<\/a><br>Colorado Department of Agriculture Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/animals\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/animals<\/a><br>Colorado Department of Public Health and Environment<br><a href=\"https:\/\/cdphe.colorado.gov\/hm\/swguidance\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/cdphe.colorado.gov\/hm\/swguidance<\/a><br>Utah State University Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.usu.edu\/agriculture-and-natural-resources\/index\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.usu.edu\/agriculture-and-natural-resources\/index<\/a><br>Colorado State University Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Colorado-Fence-and-Trespass-Law\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Colorado Fence and Trespass Law<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Colorado is an &#8220;open range&#8221; state and meaning that it is the landowner&#8217;s responsibility to<br>&#8220;fence out&#8221; any livestock that may come on your property. It is not the livestock owner&#8217;s<br>responsibility to fence their livestock, so they remain within their pasture\/range boundaries<br>although most do to protect their livestock. Open range is a land definition, not a law.<br><br>The old adage &#8220;Good fences make good neighbors&#8221; rings true still today. The Colorado<br>fence law goes back to the early 1880&#8217;s and is very different from many other states and<br>regions. The Colorado Revised Statute pertaining to fence law is CRS 35-46-101. Livestock<br>invading your fenced property is not a criminal offense, but civil recourse may be available<br>to the landowner with a &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221; for damages incurred.<br><br>Colorado Fence Law addresses key items like defining what is a lawful fence, who is<br>responsible for construction and maintenance of a lawful fence and who can claim<br>damages for trespass. The Colorado Statutes #35-46-101 clearly defines two important<br>terms for addressing issues that apply to fencing and trespass &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221; and<br>&#8220;Livestock&#8221;. The following are the definition of the terms from the Colorado Revised<br>Statutes and they should be referred to when building, maintaining, repairing and replacing<br>any fences.<br><br>A &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221; is defined as a &#8220;well-constructed three barbed wire fence with substantial<br>posts set at a distance of approximately 20 feet apart, and sufficient to turn ordinary horses<br>and cattle, with all gates equally as good as the fence, or any other fence of like efficiency.&#8221;<br>&#8220;Livestock&#8221; includes horses, cattle, mules, donkeys, goats, sheep, swine, and buffalo<br>(bison).<br><br>According to the Colorado Department of Agriculture, Colorado&#8217;s &#8220;Fence Law&#8221; will not<br>prohibit any legal action for any escaped livestock involved in an accident on the public<br>highways.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you do have a &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221;, but another&#8217;s livestock are on your property, the burden of<br>proof falls upon you, the property owner, to prove that the livestock broke through a &#8220;Lawful<br>Fence&#8221; and did not simply walk through an open gate, unfenced portion or a broken fence.<br>It is legal to take possession of livestock that have trespassed on your property, but if you<br>do keep that livestock, you also become legally responsible to feed and care for the<br>livestock. (CRS 35-46-102) You must also notify your local brand inspector and the sheriff\u2019s<br>office when livestock is being held for trespass damage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"Construction-and-Maintenance-of-&quot;Lawful-Fence&quot;\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Construction and Maintenance of &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221;<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Colorado Statute #35-46-112 puts the burden of the construction cost or repair of a fence<br>on adjoining properties on both landowners. Caution should be taken in that the statute<br>only requires a landowner to meet the standard of the definition of a lawful fence. If one<br>landowner wants to make the fence to a higher standard that landowner may be<br>responsible for the additional costs. In any case, they should follow the procedure set forth<br>in Statute #35-46-113 &#8211; If after thirty days written notice (certified letter), served personally<br>or by registered mail by either owner or tenant of another, if such owner neglects or refuses<br>to erect or repair one-half of the partition fence, the person giving notice then may<br>undertake repairs and may collect by a civil action one-half of the cost, refers only to a<br>&#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221;. It is always good practice to have written documentation of all agreements<br>and how you complied with the above procedure before purchasing any materials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 id=\"Livestock-Trespass\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Livestock Trespass<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Colorado Statute #35-46-102 does give provision that helps protect landowners from stock<br>producers that knowingly drive herds on to another person&#8217;s land or from repeated<br>livestock trespass where a &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221; is in place and maintained to recover damages<br>through a civil court process. In any case of livestock trespass, it is best that you keep local<br>sheriff\u2019s office and brand inspection office (a division of the Colorado Department of<br>Agriculture) involved.<br><br>There are some generalizations that can be made in helping with issues that arise between<br>neighbors in regard to livestock and fencing:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Always refer to updated Colorado Revised Statutes on Fencing Laws and consult<br>with local law enforcement and brand inspection.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Make sure that a &#8220;Lawful Fence&#8221; is in place and that it is regularly maintained.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Colorado fence laws favor the livestock owner and put the duty of protecting<br>property on the landowner.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>An open and good working relationship with adjacent landowners is the best<br>prevention for issues with livestock and fencing.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Open Range and Fencing, Colorado Department of Agriculture<br><a href=\"https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/brands\/open-range-and-fencing\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/brands\/open-range-and-fencing<\/a><br>Fencing with Wildlife in Mind, Colorado State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/fencing-with-wildlife-in-mind\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/fencing-with-wildlife-in-mind\/<\/a><br>Colorado Parks and Wildlife\u2019s \u201cFences and Wildlife\u201d, Colorado Wildlife Federation<br><a href=\"https:\/\/coloradowildlife.org\/cpws-fences-and-wildlife\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/coloradowildlife.org\/cpws-fences-and-wildlife\/<\/a><br>Planning Fencing Systems for Intensive Grazing Management, University of Kentucky<br>Cooperative Extension Service<br><a href=\"https:\/\/publications.mgcafe.uky.edu\/id-74\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/publications.mgcafe.uky.edu\/id-74<\/a><br>Planning and Building Fences on the Farm, University of Tennessee Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/solutions.tennessee.edu\/publication\/PB1541\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/solutions.tennessee.edu\/publication\/PB1541\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Poisonous-Plants-for-Livestock\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Poisonous Plants for Livestock<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you are pasturing livestock, be aware that there are some plants that are poisonous to<br>animals. Some are native plants, not noxious weeds, but they are still undesirable in the<br>pasture (but are fine in areas where livestock doesn&#8217;t graze). Others are noxious weeds and<br>thus should be managed. While many poisonous plants have an unpleasant taste that<br>animals avoid, if other forage is limited due to drought or overgrazing, livestock may graze<br>them anyway or even develop a taste for them. Some plants cause extreme photosensitivity\/sunburn due to liver disease, others cause only temporary symptoms until<br>the animal is removed from the plant source, while others cause incurable symptoms or<br>death even after the animal is removed from the source. Livestock owners should inspect<br>their pasture prior to turning animals out to graze for the first time each season. Watch for<br>unusual behavior in your animals. If you suspect a poisoning, consult a veterinarian as<br>soon as possible. Be sure to collect plant samples you suspect caused the poisoning for<br>positive identification.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The Six Worst Plants for Horses (according to Colorado&#8217;s Poisonous Menace booklet)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Senecio (Senecio spp.) (S. jacobea or tansy ragwort is a List A noxious weed.<br>There are many species of native Senecios, many of which are toxic).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Houndstongue (Cynoglossum officinale) Also a list B noxious weed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Locoweed (Oxytropis lambertii and sericea and Astragalus molissimus) All<br>grazing animals are affected, damage is often irreversible. These are native<br>plants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Sages (Artemisia frigida, A. ludoviciana, these are native plants) (A. absinthium<br>is a list B noxious weed but is rare on the front range). Sage poisoning is most<br>pronounced in wintertime when heavy snow covers the lower growing range<br>grasses. Horses can eat sage without problem provided they are not forced to<br>eat it exclusively when other forages are scarce.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Russian knapweed (Acroptilon repens) Also a list B Noxious weed (rare in the<br>Front Range mountains) is only toxic to horses and can cause an irreversible and<br>usually fatal brain disease.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Other Common Plants that may be Poisonous to Livestock (list is not necessarily comprehensive)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Golden Banner (Thermopsis divaricarpa) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Chokecherry (Prunus virginiana) Native, all plants in the Prunus family contain<br>cyanide and are poisonous.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) Non-native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Larkspur (Delphinium spp.) (Causes more fatal poisoning of cattle than any<br>other naturally occurring species &#8211; horses are less susceptible) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Monkshood (Aconitum spp.) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Lupines (Lupinus spp.) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Hairy vetch (Vicia villosa) Non-native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) Non-native List C noxious weed.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Water hemlock (Cicuta maculata) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Death Camas (Anticlea elegans, or at lower elevations, Toxicoscordion<br>venenosum) Native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Flixweed (Descurainia sophia) Non-native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Field Bindweed, morning glory (Convolvulus arvensis) Non-native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Nightshades (Solanum spp.) Both native and non-native<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) Native<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Other plants and weeds may become poisonous to livestock when they accumulate high<br>levels of certain elements such as nitrogen (in the form of nitrates) or selenium. Kochia, a<br>common nuisance weed, can accumulate toxic nitrate levels when growing in an over<br>fertilized area or drylot (excess nitrates due to urine accumulation). In certain areas in<br>Boulder County, soils contain higher selenium levels. Forage plants grown in these soils<br>can take up and store excess selenium levels. Having hay tested helps in managing this<br>problem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Resources:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Guide to Poisonous Plants, Colorado State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/poisonousplants.cvmbs.colostate.edu\/home\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/poisonousplants.cvmbs.colostate.edu\/home<\/a><br>Book: A Guide to Plant Poisonings of Animals in North America, by Anthony Knight and<br>Richard Walter.<br>Booklet: Colorado&#8217;s Poisonous Menace: Do You Know What Your Horse is Eating? Produced<br>by the Colorado Department of Agriculture<br><a href=\"https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/conservation\/noxious-weeds\/education-and-outreach-materials\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/conservation\/noxious-weeds\/education-and-outreach-materials<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Livestock-Handling\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Livestock Handling<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is important for both your health and your livestock&#8217;s health that you know how to handle<br>them safely and with confidence. Prior to purchasing livestock is the best time to learn all<br>you can about your particular species such as what is a healthy animal and what care do<br>they need, what are their needs when it comes to nutrition, fencing and housing, and<br>learning how to handle and move them around your property.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Vision<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Animals sense their surroundings very differently than humans due to their better hearing,<br>sense of smell and their wider field of vision. When handling livestock, it is important to<br>keep this in mind both for the comfort of the animal and their safety and yours.<br>Many livestock species only see in black and white, not color. Due to the placement of their<br>eyes on the sides of their heads, livestock have a field of vision almost twice that of<br>humans but only a portion of it is binocular which means they have poor depth perception.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<section tabindex=\"0\" class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\" >Species<\/th><th scope=\"col\" >Field of vision<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Humans<\/td><td>155\u2013210\u00b0<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Cattle<\/td><td>330\u00b0, 25\u201350\u00b0 binocular<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Horses<\/td><td>350\u00b0, 65\u00b0 binocular<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Sheep<\/td><td>270\u2013320\u00b0<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Goats<\/td><td>320\u2013340\u00b0<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Swine<\/td><td>310\u00b0, 35\u201350\u00b0 binocular<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Chickens<\/td><td>300\u00b0<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/section>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Hearing<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Most livestock have wider hearing ranges than humans. Because of their more sensitive<br>hearing, livestock are able to detect sounds that humans cannot hear. Loud and<br>unexpected noises easily frighten them. So being calm and quietly talking to and touching<br>them, keeps them calmer and easier to handle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<section tabindex=\"0\" class=\"wp-block-table\"><table class=\"has-fixed-layout\"><thead><tr><th scope=\"col\" >Species<\/th><th scope=\"col\" >Frequency or pitch<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Humans<\/td><td>Up to 20,000 Hz<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Cattle<\/td><td>Up to 40,000 Hz<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Sheep<\/td><td>Up to 40,000 Hz<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Swine<\/td><td>Up to 40,000 Hz<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Chickens<\/td><td>Up to 7,200 Hz<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/section>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Livestock like humans prefer a routine such as feeding and milking at the same time every<br>day. They also have their &#8220;friends&#8221; or herd (other animals that they are around each day).<br>Removing them from these &#8220;safe&#8221; environments or adding new elements or animals to the<br>farm can add stress. Most livestock are herd animals meaning that they prefer to not be<br>alone and to have other animals around them. Maintaining that routine and familiar<br>territory keeps animals happier and calmer.<br><br>Much like dealing with children, patience is a virtue when handling livestock. Reacting with<br>impatience or yelling when the animals are not doing what you want them to do will not<br>serve you well. Calmly walking and talking to them gets them to respond faster and in the<br>manner you want. Working with your animals routinely teaches them to know you and your<br>expectations and get comfortable with your handling methods. Be confident but not cocky<br>in how you handle them. Being able to handle them during an emergency evacuation starts<br>when you handle them when it&#8217;s not an emergency. Make sure family members and others<br>who may handle your animals know how to properly handle your livestock both prior to and<br>during an emergency.<br><br>Intact male animals are naturally more aggressive and should be handled with extra care.<br>It&#8217;s a good idea to have a separate area to handle them. Females with young are also more<br>protective and may respond differently or more aggressively. Take these considerations into<br>account when handling these animals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock have a flight zone which is their personal space and in their vision range. They are<br>most comfortable when they can hear and see what is in the area and will act\/move to get<br>back into their comfort zone. For most animals their point of balance is at their shoulders. If<br>you are in front of the animal, it will take steps backward to a more comfortable position. If<br>you are in back of the animal, you trigger the animal to move forward away from you. By<br>positioning yourself, you can calmly move animals around without the use of a prod or loud<br>noises. Most animals cannot see directly behind them or right in front of their nose. They<br>move so that they keep you within their field of vision.<br><br>Your facilities can make handling your livestock easier. Having a rough finished concrete<br>floor with good drainage provides better footing for your animals. High traffic areas provide<br>the best footing if they have grooved concrete. While a smooth finish to a concrete floor<br>makes it easier to clean, it can become slippery when wet, making animals uneasy.<br>Lighting should be even that does not create shadows which scare animals. Fences, gates<br>and other structures should be built with your species in mind and be structurally sound<br>and not have sharp edges or other protrusions that can injure animals. Chutes and alleys<br>should be wide enough for animals to pass each other but not wide enough for them to be<br>able to turn around. Periodically inspect all structures and repair any areas that could harm<br>animals. Good housekeeping and cleaning provide a healthier environment.<br><br>When working with any livestock in closer quarters, be sure to have a way of escape.<br>Animals can change mood depending on the situation and you need to be ready to get out<br>of the enclosure quickly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The main points to remember are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Avoid quick movements and loud noises.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Be patient and act calmly.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Establish a routine.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Move slowly and deliberately around livestock; gently touch animals rather than<br>shoving or bumping them. Don&#8217;t shout.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Always have an escape route when working with animals in close quarters.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Most animals tend to be aggressive when protecting their young; be extra careful<br>around cows with newborn calves.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Males of breeding age are very dangerous. Use special facilities for them and<br>practice extreme caution when handling them. Never trust them or assume they<br>are tame.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Keep young children away from animal handling areas.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Never prod an animal when it has nowhere to go.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Respect animals-their size and bulk make them potentially dangerous.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Be cautious around animals that are frightened.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When you are handling livestock watch for the following signs that may indicate fear or<br>aggression in the animals:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>raised or pinned (flattened) ears;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>raised tail or rapidly lashing tail;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>raised hair on the back;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>bared teeth;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>pawing the ground;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>stiff-legged gate or posture;<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>snorting\/growling.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Resources:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock Handling Safety, Texas Department of Insurance<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.tdi.texas.gov\/pubs\/videoresource\/stpsafelivest.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.tdi.texas.gov\/pubs\/videoresource\/stpsafelivest.pdf<\/a><br>Livestock Handling and Confinement Safety, Michigan State University Extension chromehttps:\/\/<br>afaonline.ca\/uploads\/files\/Resources\/Publications\/Livestock%20Handling.pdf<br>Cow Handling Safety Tool, University of Wisconsin &#8211; Madison Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/farms.extension.wisc.edu\/forward-farm-safety-toolbox\/cow-handling\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/farms.extension.wisc.edu\/forward-farm-safety-toolbox\/cow-handling\/<\/a><br>Recommended Basic Livestock Handling<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.grandin.com\/behaviour\/principles\/principles.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.grandin.com\/behaviour\/principles\/principles.html<\/a><br>Animal Handling Safety Considerations, University of Missouri Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.missouri.edu\/publications\/g1931\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.missouri.edu\/publications\/g1931<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Brand-Inspection\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Brand Inspection<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The following items are a highlighted overview of the requirements to purchase, sell or<br>transport livestock within Colorado, or into or out of the state. Also included are a few<br>pointers when purchasing livestock in other states that are transported into Colorado.<br>Employees of the State Board of Stock Inspection are charged with the protection of the<br>Colorado livestock industry. They must certify that the shipper or seller is the legal owner<br>prior to issuing a certificate. All lost, missing, stray or stolen livestock fall under the<br>jurisdiction and control of the State Board.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Things to Remember<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Inspection is required for the sale or movement of livestock, even if the previous<br>parties did not comply the last time the animal was sold or transported.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Inspection is required regardless of whether or not the animal is branded.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Inspection is required on all classes of livestock. Registration papers, or lack of<br>registry, does not exempt inspection.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>For the purposes of this article, the definition of a brand is a permanent mark on<br>the hide of an animal registered with any state as a livestock brand. (Tattoos are<br>not brands.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Inspection is required at the point of origin, unless released by the local<br>inspector.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A health certificate may be required prior to sale or movement. Contact the<br>Colorado Department of Agriculture for requirements.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Regulations<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Additional information regarding exact regulations can be obtained from the Division of<br>Brand Inspection, State Board of Stock Inspection Commissioners (Brand Board), a section<br>of Colorado&#8217;s Department of Agriculture.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Information About Out-of-State Livestock Purchases<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When purchasing animals in states other than Colorado, be sure to check that state&#8217;s<br>requirements concerning inspection and movement prior to the purchase and transport of<br>livestock into Colorado.<br><br>Several states do not have an inspection law and, therefore, a certified inspection cannot<br>be obtained. Always get a valid bill of sale and a health certificate when purchasing<br>animals in no-inspection states. This needs to include a complete description of the<br>animals being purchased, including number of head, color, sex, breed, markings,<br>registration numbers and hot iron brands among other pertinent information.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Resources:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock Inspection, Colorado Department of Agriculture<br><a href=\"https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/brands\/livestock-inspection\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/brands\/livestock-inspection<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Biosecurity\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Biosecurity<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Preventing Disease Outbreaks on the Property<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Biosecurity is defined as the measures taken to prevent disease from entering a farm and<br>to prevent transmission within a farm. Biosecurity maximizes livestock health and<br>minimizes potential for disease spread. The 3 basic tenants of biosecurity are Isolation,<br>Traffic Control and Sanitation. These tenants are accomplished by exclusion and<br>containment.<br><br>What does this mean for the small acreage livestock owner? The first step is to isolate as<br>much as possible your animals from wildlife and other livestock, for example your poultry<br>from wild birds. Wildlife, especially wild birds, can be disease carriers such as avian<br>influenza. By allowing your livestock to interact with wildlife or livestock owned by others,<br>you may be allowing disease transmission. For poultry owners, if your property attracts a lot of wild geese and ducks, do not allow your flock to use the areas where the wild birds<br>congregate. If you use a chicken tractor to move your flock around the property, make sure<br>to avoid areas where wild birds have congregated. It is also a good idea to have a roof on<br>your enclosure not only for biosecurity purposes but also from a predator protection point.<br><br>For poultry owners, it is best to practice an all-in\/all-out management system. This means<br>that you start with a flock of same age birds and you do not add any new birds to the flock.<br>When you are ready either to sell or harvest them, the whole flock goes. You do not keep<br>any of them. You can then thoroughly clean and disinfect the coop and run. You then<br>purchase a new flock. If you do bring in new birds or take birds to shows, it is best to isolate<br>them for 4 weeks after returning just in case they are carrying a disease. For new birds,<br>try to get their care history. This way you do not run the risk of the whole flock getting sick. If<br>you notice that one of your birds is sick, isolate that bird so that it does not spread the<br>illness to other birds. Flock owners need to know what a healthy bird is and what normal<br>behavior is.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For all livestock owners, have separate boots and clothing that are only worn on your farm<br>and when you are working with your livestock. Wear different clothing and boots when<br>visiting other facilities. Disinfect the clothing you wore offsite when you get home before<br>you work with your livestock. If others visit your property, have a disinfectant foot bath or<br>booties at a minimum so they don&#8217;t bring disease to your property. Be aware of other<br>vehicles that can bring disease on your property. Do you have large quantities of feed<br>delivered? If so, you may want to have it delivered to an area that is separate from your<br>animals. Keep your coops, stables\/barns, shelters and areas around them clean. Make<br>sure you clean and disinfect your coop and other livestock areas at least once a year, but<br>more is better. Rodent proofing feed storage areas helps prevent disease transmission.<br>Cleanup feed spills to prevent attracting rodents and wildlife. Water tanks should also be<br>cleaned and disinfected on a routine schedule. Having wildlife ladders in water tanks<br>prevents bats, birds and other wildlife from accidentally getting into water tanks and not<br>being able to get out.<br><br>Tools and equipment should not be shared with other livestock owners and be routinely<br>cleaned, disinfected and stored so that wildlife does not have access. Hand washing and<br>sanitizing stations should be used prior to entering livestock areas. Keep the property clean<br>by mowing grasses and weeds and not providing trashy areas that rodents and other<br>wildlife can inhabit.<br><br>When taking care of livestock, do it in order of youngest (most vulnerable} to older and from<br>healthiest to ill animals. This prevents disease spread to more vulnerable animals. Use<br>different equipment for ill animals than for healthy animals. Check your animals daily,<br>watch them for any different behaviors that may indicate problems. Keeping pets out of<br>livestock areas is also a good idea. Remove and dispose of any carcasses as soon as they<br>are found.<br><br>Identify a veterinarian in your area that is knowledgeable about the livestock species that<br>you have and is available to treat them when necessary. Your local extension agent is most<br>likely not a veterinarian and will not diagnose the problem with your animal over the phone.<br>They can help you with improving the biosecurity on your property, developing a biosecurity<br>plan and most likely be involved if your property is involved in a disease outbreak and may<br>have a list of local veterinarians.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Enhance Biosecurity, USDA APHIS<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.aphis.usda.gov\/livestock-poultry-disease\/avian\/avian-influenza\/hpaidetections\/livestock\/enhance-biosecurity\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.aphis.usda.gov\/livestock-poultry-disease\/avian\/avian-influenza\/hpaidetections\/livestock\/enhance-biosecurity<\/a><br>Colorado State University Extension Biosecurity website<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/search\/?q=biosecurity&amp;order=DESC&amp;orderBy=relevance&amp;\nperPage=12&amp;currentPage=1&amp;sites=1&amp;postType=resource-cpt\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/search\/?q=biosecurity&amp;order=DESC&amp;orderBy=relevance&amp;<br>perPage=12&amp;currentPage=1&amp;sites=1&amp;postType=resource-cpt<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Manure-Management\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Manure Management<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Manure can be an invaluable resource for soil and plant health, but it can also be a water<br>pollutant, produce odor, a disease source, attract flies and parasites and be a general<br>nuisance. Animal owners are responsible for managing manure to protect surface and<br>ground water and provide their animals with a safe and clean environment. Federal and<br>state laws forbid discharging animal waste into water. Manure has the potential to pollute<br>water, affecting human and aquatic health, recreation (fishing and swimming), and drinking<br>water. Manure contains nutrients (particularly nitrogen and phosphorous), bacteria and<br>protozoa (such as E. coli and Giardia) that can negatively impact our lakes, rivers, and<br>groundwater (i.e. well water). High nitrogen levels in water can be toxic to fish, and can<br>cause blue baby syndrome in humans, livestock deaths, and other health problems in<br>humans or animals drinking the water. Excess phosphorus can cause algae blooms which<br>can lead to fish kills. In addition, manure can produce fecal coliform contamination in<br>water, making it potentially hazardous to fish and humans.<br><br>Mud and manure can cause abscesses, thrush, and other livestock diseases. Dried<br>manure produces molds that contribute to respiratory problems in horses and cattle. By<br>adopting simple and low-cost best management practices (BMPs) for storing, handling,<br>managing and utilizing manure, the environment and livestock health benefit. Lost<br>nutrients can contribute to water pollution. Manure nutrients can be lost through erosion,<br>water run-off, volatilization, and even leaching.<br><br>Manure management means having a plan for properly storing and using the manure<br>produced by your animals. Manure can be stockpiled, composted, spread on fields and<br>pastures, and\/or disposed of off-site. For all these options, there are strategies which when<br>implemented reduces the likelihood of water pollution and pathogenic infection.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Disposal Options<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dispose off-site to a landfill or hire someone to pick up and dispose of or compost manure.<br>Although not the best option, check with your local waste disposal company to see if they<br>allow manure or can haul to their composting facility. Other ways to get rid of manure are to<br>market it to friends, family, coworkers, and neighbors for use in their compost pile,<br>pastures or landscaping.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Composting<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Composting requires the correct ratio of carbon (bedding or leaves or other brown material)<br>and nitrogen (manure, grass clippings) for rapid decomposition. A 30:1 (C:N) ratio, water to<br>keep the pile moist and aerating the pile regularly promotes the quickest decomposition.<br>Composting manure takes additional labor and time, but it reduces the total volume by<br>more than half, reduces smell, and can kill weed seeds and pathogens like E.coli.<br>For composting to work, the proper ingredients are needed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Mix the correct carbon:nitrogen ratio (30:1). For manure composting, this means<br>using by volume about 2 parts carbon (bedding, leaves, shredded paper, and<br>brown grass clippings) for 1-part manure or other green material (i.e. grass<br>clipping, manure) by volume.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Oxygen throughout the pile is required for decomposing organisms. Aeration,<br>getting oxygen into the pile, is created by turning the pile regularly.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The pile should be 50% moist (feels like a wrung-out sponge). This can be<br>achieved by watering as needed. Try using a tarp over the pile to keep moisture<br>contained and prevent outer layer from drying out.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Allow enough time for the material to break down. The composting process may<br>take much longer during cold winter temperatures and in our arid climate and if<br>you are not actively watering and aerating it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Naturally occurring bacteria and microorganisms break down the material. There<br>is no need to add any kind of starter organism. They are naturally occurring in<br>soil, vegetation and manure.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Actively composting manure properly kills most E.coli and weed seeds. For a manure pile<br>to be composted properly, the following requirements must be met:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Mix the compost regularly. This is important not only for aeration but also to<br>ensure that the entire pile has reached the required temperature and time to kill<br>pathogens.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Monitor the temperature. Long probe thermometers are available for this<br>purpose. The temperature must reach 130 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit for at least<br>two five-day heating cycles. Mix the compost between cycles. The temperature<br>drops temporarily after turning but quickly heats back up. Pathogens are a<br>potential problem with fresh manure, especially on vegetable gardens. Homecomposted<br>products containing manure are best used in flower gardens, shrub<br>borders and other nonfood gardens. To prevent E.coli infection, always wash<br>your hands with soap and warm water after handling manure. Don&#8217;t use the<br>same tools for manure handling that you use for crop harvesting (buckets or<br>gloves, for example). Remove manure-contaminated clothing, including shoes<br>and gloves, before going into the house and especially before eating, drinking or<br>preparing food.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>After composting the composting process is complete allow the compost to<br>cure for two to four months before applying it to your soil. This allows the<br>beneficial bacteria to kill disease-causing bacteria.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Spread manure in spring or summer when the ground is not frozen. To integrate using<br>manure as part of your fertilization plan, you may want to test manure for nutrient content<br>and spread based on soil test recommendations. Unused nutrients pollute water bodies<br>and groundwater. Keeping records is essential to manure application because you don&#8217;t<br>want to apply more nutrients than the vegetation can utilize. Keep track of when and how<br>much manure or compost is applied. If possible, regularly have manure or compost<br>analyzed for nutrient content (N, P, K, and electrical conductivity (salts)) and apply manure<br>at a rate that does not exceed crop nutrient requirements. Test your soil and manure at a<br>certified laboratory.<br><br>Never apply manure to land that is highly erodible (steep slope), frozen, or saturated.<br>Spread manure evenly, no more than one inch thick per year. Incorporating (mixing manure<br>with soil) manure immediately after application reduces nutrient losses from erosion and<br>volatilization. Harrowing pastures after spreading manure further breaks-up and distribute<br>manure for faster decomposition. The best time to spread manure is in the spring because<br>nutrients are quickly utilized by plants at this time of year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If your manure is mostly wood shavings (more than the 30:1 ratio), consider composting it<br>first before land application. The shavings as a carbon source may tie up too much of your<br>soil&#8217;s nitrogen during decomposition. Grasses do not have access to all the soil nitrogen<br>during decomposition. Don&#8217;t apply fresh manure to your fruit or vegetable garden. Even<br>aged manure can have E.coli present. Additionally, fresh manure is higher in salts and<br>nitrogen that can damage crops. This is another reason to let your manure compost and<br>cure before use.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Stockpiling Manure<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Stockpile manure at least 150 feet away from surface water (ponds, wetlands, streams),<br>wells, and gardens preferably not on a slope. Reroute rainwater (including roof water) or<br>snowmelt away from manure stockpiles. Build an earthen berm or diversion and use<br>gutters and downspouts to divert clean water away from manure piles. If manure has<br>historically been stored near a well head or other human or livestock drinking water source,<br>your drinking water should be tested for nitrates, heavy metals, and fecal coliform by a<br>certified laboratory. Manure storage must be moved away from human and livestock<br>drinking water sources.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Manure Management Strategies<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Keep animals out of surface water bodies. While animals are drinking or walking<br>through water bodies, they often leave manure behind. Manure nutrients can kill<br>fish, cause algae blooms, and spread bacteria to our drinking water. Use<br>temporary or permanent fence to prevent or limit livestock access to surface<br>waters. Install water tanks so animals don&#8217;t have to drink from surface water.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Manure management on pastures depends on getting good manure distribution<br>across the pasture. Rotational grazing is an excellent way to achieve good<br>manure distribution. Moving mineral blocks, supplemental feeding and watering<br>facilities often encourages better manure distribution. Use a harrow to break up<br>and spread manure in pastures.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Be aware that manure tends to be high in salts, when applied at excessive rates<br>it can contribute to soil salinity. Soil salinity causes plants to become water<br>stressed. When manure is applied to pastures, salts can accumulate on the soil<br>surface unless they are leached into the subsoil. Salt accumulation is most<br>common with clay-based soils with limited irrigation and rainfall.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Plant shrubs and trees to reduce wind and odor near stockpiles. Stockpile<br>manure downwind from barns and 200 feet from your neighbors. Control<br>insects. Raw manure and mud provide a breeding ground for flies. Remove<br>manure and soiled bedding from barns, shelters and corrals on a regular basis.<br>Composting at proper temperatures inhibits fly development. Use fly predatory<br>wasps or one of the several pesticides labeled for use on manure piles to kill<br>maggots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Be aware that if animals eat forage which was treated with herbicides containing<br>aminopyralid, clopyralid, or picloram, the herbicide can carry over in manure<br>and composted manure. This becomes a problem when the manure or<br>composted manure is used on vegetable gardens. If you purchase forage,<br>compost, or manure, be sure to ask what herbicides were used on the field.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Choosing a Soil Amendment, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topic-areas\/yard-garden\/choosing-a-soil-amendment\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topic-areas\/yard-garden\/choosing-a-soil-amendment\/<\/a><br>CSU Soil, Water, Plant Testing Lab Website<br><a href=\"https:\/\/agsci.colostate.edu\/soiltestinglab\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/agsci.colostate.edu\/soiltestinglab\/<\/a><br>\u201cContaminated Organic Material Kills Sensitive Vegetables&#8221;, Front Range Sustainable Small<br>Acreage News<br><a href=\"https:\/\/sam.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/07\/11-summer.pdf\">https:\/\/sam.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/2\/2016\/07\/11-summer.pdf<\/a><br>Manure Management Guidelines, CSU Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/manure-management-guidelines\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/manure-management-guidelines\/<\/a><br>Anaerobic Digestion of Animal Wastes: Factors to Consider, National Center for<br>Appropriate Technology ATTRA Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncat.org\/publication\/anaerobic-digestion-animal-wastes\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.ncat.org\/publication\/anaerobic-digestion-animal-wastes\/<\/a><br>Soil and Water, National Center for Appropriate Technology ATTRA Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ncat.org\/topic\/soil-and-water\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.ncat.org\/topic\/soil-and-water\/<\/a><br>Composting Horse Manure for Environmental and Economic Benefits, LSU Ag Center<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.lsuagcenter.com\/topics\/livestock\/horses\/educational%20resources\/water_q\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.lsuagcenter.com\/topics\/livestock\/horses\/educational%20resources\/water_q<\/a><br>uality\/compostinghorsemanureforenvironmentalandeconimicbenefits<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Livestock-and-Adverse-Weather\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Livestock and Adverse Weather<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Helping your livestock survive and thrive in winter weather starts with planning. Key<br>considerations are providing them with feed (livestock have increased nutritional needs in<br>colder weather and getting feed to the livestock may be challenging), shelter, water, and<br>your choice of species and breed. Livestock with more hair stay warmer than those with<br>minimal hair (i.e. beef cattle versus dairy cattle). Consider breeds that originate from colder<br>climates rather than tropical areas. Purchase your animals locally so that they are adjusted<br>to our climate and elevation. For poultry, choose those that have smaller combs and<br>wattles to prevent freezing. You may want to insulate their coop and keep a light on for heat<br>on those subzero nights.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Most livestock species are designed to live outside and survive most weather conditions.<br>The Lowest Critical Environmental Temperature (LCT) is the temperature at which animals<br>can maintain their main core body temperature without supplemental energy (feed). For<br>most livestock, if they are dry, the LCT is 20 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit. However, if they get<br>wet, it goes up to 60-degree Fahrenheit. Both temperatures are without a wind chill factor.<br>For every 20 degrees Fahrenheit drop-in wind-chill temperature, livestock energy (feed)<br>requirements go up 1%.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>To help your livestock maintain good body condition in adverse weather, you need to do<br>several things.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Monitor your livestock for excessive shivering, lethargy and weakness. As<br>animals begin to experience hypothermia, they increase their metabolism to<br>generate more heat. Blood flow to the extremities is reduced. Ears, combs and<br>teats may experience frostbite.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Rapid warming of the teats is needed to minimize damage and monitoring for<br>mastitis is required after calving. Some frostbite damage may not be reversible.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Provide them with plenty of forage to meet their added calorie requirement.<br>Have your hay tested so that you know the nutritional value. Providing good, topquality<br>hay is essential during the winter months. For horses, you can provide<br>some &#8220;comfort&#8221; food such as warm bran mash, moistened beet pulp or soaked<br>pelleted feed to increase water intake and provide some warmth. You may need<br>to increase the feed amount and the &#8220;nutrient density&#8221; (feeding alfalfa in<br>addition to grass hay, be careful doing this with ruminants so that you don&#8217;t<br>cause bloat). More nutritionally dense (packed with nutrients) grains may need<br>to be added to the diet.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Water is critical to all living beings. Livestock daily water requirements range<br>from 3 gallons per day for sheep to 14 gallons per day or more for cattle. They<br>cannot meet their requirements from either forage or consuming snow or ice.<br>Consuming snow or ice lowers body temperature making them more vulnerable<br>to problems. They need fresh, unfrozen and, if possible, slightly warmed water.<br>They tend to drink less when water is cold, so they can become dehydrated. You<br>can use tank heaters to help keep stock tanks clear of ice and water slightly<br>warmed (35 &#8211; 40 degrees Fahrenheit). However, you need to check the heaters<br>frequently to prevent fire and electrocution problems. Have a backup generator<br>in the event power fails.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Young and older animals are especially vulnerable during the cold. Providing<br>them extra bedding, protection, and warm food and water is important. If you are<br>lambing or calving during the cold, make sure that the mothers are in a wellprotected<br>building or area with plenty of bedding for warmth. Make sure that the<br>young get dried off quickly after birth.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Most livestock don&#8217;t need a fully insulated, state-of-the-art, heated barn. In many cases, a<br>roofed three-sided structure, a hill, clumps of trees, or a solid fence provides enough<br>protection from cold winter winds. Reducing winter wind exposure is a must so orient the<br>building based on your winter prevailing winds. The structure, or area, must have plenty of<br>dry bedding. Livestock can conserve 20 to 25% heat loss by lying down on dry bedding.<br><br>The shelter needs to be sized to handle all the livestock that will be using it. Please refer to<br>the Oregon State document link for square footage needed for each species. Wet, muddy,<br>or no bedding can increase their vulnerability to cold temperatures. During a snowstorm or<br>cold spring rain, a structure that provides not only wind protection but a roof to keep them<br>dry is needed. Remember that the LCT jumps drastically as they get wet. Protection desired<br>varies by species. Sheep don&#8217;t mind getting wet, but goats do so they seek shelter rather<br>than graze in the open. Dairy cattle chill quicker than beef cattle since they tend to have<br>less hair to insulate them. The coat condition is critical to providing insulation. The more<br>hair the better as it allows for air space between the hairs to act as insulation. When hair is<br>wet or muddy, it becomes matted, limiting the insulating air spaces available. Manage mud<br>in your dry lot area and provide drier areas with bedding so animals can stay dry. Check<br>your livestock going into the fall not only for general health and body condition but also for<br>skin and hair health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Deep Snow and Drifts<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When storing hay, consider how you get it to your livestock in winter. You don&#8217;t want to lug<br>50\u201380 pound bales through 1 foot or more snow. You may want to store several days\u2019 worth<br>in the stable or barn or wherever your livestock are kept during major winter storms.<br>Consider how you get from your house to the barn in case of a large snow fall or snow drifts.<br>Consider a windbreak or fence that provides a path to the livestock. Also, consider a fence<br>or windbreak around their shelter and water tanks. If you can, build feedlots, shelters and<br>other buildings on south facing slopes and other protected areas where temperatures are<br>higher, and snow depth is lower or melts off quicker. If your livestock is a considerable<br>distance from the house, have equipment ready to plow a path to the area and for the<br>livestock to be able to move around. With deep snow, fencing may be covered so that<br>animals can walk over or through it. Keep your fencing in good condition and check for<br>areas that might allow animals to escape.<br><br>Livestock can survive several days without feed but must have access to water. When<br>reintroducing food, provide livestock smaller portions several times a day. There can be<br>some potential for nitrate poisoning if your feed is high in nitrates and your livestock has not<br>been fed for several days. It is always a good idea to have your hay tested but especially for<br>winter feed. Make sure that they have enough salt and mineral blocks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Living on the Land: Winter Livestock Care<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/sites\/extd8\/files\/documents\/ec1635.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/sites\/extd8\/files\/documents\/ec1635.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Management and Feeding Horses in Cold Weather<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ontario.ca\/page\/management-and-feeding-horses-cold-weather\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.ontario.ca\/page\/management-and-feeding-horses-cold-weather<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Winter Animal Care, Michigan State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.canr.msu.edu\/news\/winter_animal_care\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.canr.msu.edu\/news\/winter_animal_care<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Livestock-Species-Information\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Livestock Species Information<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The following pages are provided to provide a sample of the considerations for raising<br>domestic livestock that are common in our area. For further information, consult your local<br>Extension Specialist or visit one of the web resources that follow. Events like the National<br>Western Stock Show or your local county fair provide opportunities to talk with livestock<br>owners. With any species, learn how they look and act when they are healthy, handling and<br>plan for dealing with sick animals and disasters and emergencies.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Colorado State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">CDC Healthy Pet Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/search.cdc.gov\/search\/?query=healthy%20pets&amp;dpage=1\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/search.cdc.gov\/search\/?query=healthy%20pets&amp;dpage=1<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Utah State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.usu.edu\/agriculture-and-natural-resources\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.usu.edu\/agriculture-and-natural-resources\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Beef-Cattle\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Beef Cattle<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cattle can be ideal for the small acreage landowner and nationally the average herd size is<br>25 cows. Cattle can be a great tool to help manage a small-acreage ecosystem. Forage<br>plants especially grasses are designed to be in relationship with a foraging animal in order<br>to be healthy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>Two basic beef cattle operations are cow\/calf and weanling\/yearling enterprises. Cow\/calf<br>enterprises operate year-round, with calves as the primary product. Weanling\/yearling<br>enterprises purchase weaned calves or yearlings and graze them only for summer gain or<br>feed them out for meat. While these are the two typical commercial systems for beef<br>production, we now are seeing more and more small acreage landowners totally integrated<br>who are producing calves and raising them for their own freezer or a local market. These<br>cow\/calf enterprises can be commercial or registered. Registered cow\/calf enterprises<br>produce breeding stock; commercial cow\/calf enterprises produce calves for meat<br>production.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><br>There are now smaller breeds of conventional breeds (i.e. miniature Herefords or Angus).<br>These smaller cattle breeds may be more appropriate for small acreages. They produce<br>less meat which may be better suited to smaller families. The smaller breeds require one<br>third less feed than standard size breeds. Another bovine relative, the yak, has found<br>popularity on small acreages. They produce meat, fiber and milk (mostly used for cheese).<br>Take advantage of events such as the National Western Stock Show to speak to breeders of<br>various breeds prior to purchasing any cattle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Shelter<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cattle do not require an enclosed barn. A covered 3-sided shed is enough in most areas if<br>properly situated. Site the shed so that animals are protected from prevailing winds and<br>snow drifts. The shed should have plenty of good insulating bedding material that is clean<br>and dry. Periodically clean the bedding out and replace it with clean dry bedding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cattle can be kept in a pasture using several different kinds of fencing. Highly visible wire<br>fencing either multiple strand or net wire at least 50 inches in height will keep cattle<br>confined. Wood fences can be used but are more expensive. Electric fence, once the cattle<br>are trained to respect it (they get shocked a time or two) may be the easiest to install but<br>does require maintenance. Spacing between the wires or boards should be small enough<br>so that cattle do not try to put their head through and graze. Make sure that all wire ends,<br>nails and other sharp objects are protected so that the cattle do not injure themselves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Beef cattle may drink 3-30 gallons per day (basically 1 gallon per day per 100 pounds of<br>body weight in cold temperatures and 2 gallons per day per 100 pounds of body weight in<br>hot temperatures). They require 2-3% of their body weight in forage daily. Beef cattle do fine<br>on grass pastures and grass hay. Hay should be tested to make sure nutrition needs are<br>being met. Limit the amount of alfalfa to prevent bloat or have a non-bloating legume in<br>your pasture or hay.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Beef Cattle Products<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There is no one breed that is best! Instead of selecting a breed, beef cattle producers<br>should select a biological type that is compatible with their property, production and<br>marketing goals. Because of their ability to take low quality resources and transform them<br>into high quality protein products, cattle are a great value to our food system. The typical<br>beef animal spends 11 to 12 months of its life grazing grassland and then 3 to 4 months on<br>a high energy grain diet finishing before slaughter. This high energy diet efficiently increases<br>the tenderness and flavor of the final beef product. Another product gaining popularity is<br>grass-fed beef. In a grass-fed operation cattle forgo the high energy diet and continue a<br>forage-based diet for an additional 8 to 10 months before slaughter.<br><br>Cattle performance and land carrying capacity are related to, and affected by, forage<br>production and quality. Feed cost directly impacts profitability. It is extremely important<br>that producers evaluate the cow herd&#8217;s nutritional needs versus available forage resources.<br>Carrying capacity and cattle performance are not easy to predict and change from month<br>to month.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">College of Agricultural Sciences Website, Colorado State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/agsci.colostate.edu\/ansci\/research\/beef-management-systems\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/agsci.colostate.edu\/ansci\/research\/beef-management-systems\/<\/a><br>Livestock &amp; Animals, CSU Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><br>Nutrient Requirements of Beef Cattle, Merck Veterinary Manual<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.merckvetmanual.com\/management-and-nutrition\/nutrition-beefcattle\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.merckvetmanual.com\/management-and-nutrition\/nutrition-beefcattle\/<\/a><br>nutrient-requirements-of-beef-cattle<br>Beef Cattle Nutrition Resources, University of Nebraska<br><a href=\"https:\/\/beef.unl.edu\/taxonomy\/term\/634\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/beef.unl.edu\/taxonomy\/term\/634\/<\/a><br>Beef Cattle Resources, Oregon State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/beef\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/beef<\/a><br>Nitrate Poisoning, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/nitrate-poisoning\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/nitrate-poisoning\/<\/a><br>Bovine Pinkeye, College of Veterinary Medicine Washington State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/hospital.vetmed.wsu.edu\/2026\/06\/10\/bovine-pinkeye-infectious-bovinekeratoconjunctivitis\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/hospital.vetmed.wsu.edu\/2026\/06\/10\/bovine-pinkeye-infectious-bovinekeratoconjunctivitis\/<\/a><br>Bovine Respiratory Disease: Preconditioning Calves, CSU Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/08023.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/08023.pdf<\/a><br>Prussic Acid Poisoning, South Dakota State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.sdstate.edu\/prussic-acid-poisoning\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.sdstate.edu\/prussic-acid-poisoning<\/a><br>Alternative Feeds for Cattle During Drought, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01626.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01626.pdf<\/a><br>Feed Composition for Cattle and Sheep, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01615.pdf\">https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01615.pdf<\/a><br>Formulating Rations with the Pearson Square, CSU Extension Fact Sheet #1.618<br><a href=\"https:\/\/nydairyadmin.cce.cornell.edu\/uploads\/doc_728.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/nydairyadmin.cce.cornell.edu\/uploads\/doc_728.pdf<\/a><br>Beef Topics, Utah State University<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Dairy-Cattle\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Dairy Cattle<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">While most small acreage landowners are more likely to have beef cattle some landowners<br>want a dairy cow for the milk. Dairy cattle require better housing (due to less hair) and<br>higher nutritional needs than beef cattle as they are either pregnant or lactating. They also<br>need to be bred periodically to continue to produce milk. You need to be prepared to sell<br>the calf or use the calf for veal or beef, or a replacement heifer depending on its sex. Most<br>people are familiar with the Holstein breed but might want to consider Brown Swiss, Jersey<br>or Guernsey breeds as they tend to be a smaller animal and produce milk with higher butter<br>fat which may be more desirable depending on what you will be doing with the milk. Higher<br>butter fat milk is ideal for cheese making. There are now miniature dairy cattle breeds that<br>may make more sense for a small acreage.<br>If you want the cow so that you can utilize the milk without processing (raw milk), make<br>sure that you know and understand the risks involved with raw milk and all the steps you<br>can take to protect you and your family from food borne illnesses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Shelter<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dairy cattle prefer a more enclosed shelter or barn due to less hair. Providing them with<br>plenty of clean, dry bedding is essential for their health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dairy cattle can be kept in a pasture using several different kinds of fencing. Highly visible<br>wire fencing either multiple strand or net wire at least 50 inches in height keeps cattle<br>confined. Wood fences can also be used but are more expensive. Electric fence once the<br>cattle are trained to respect it (they get shocked a time or two) may be the easiest to install<br>but does require maintenance. Spacing between the wires or boards should be small<br>enough so that cattle will not try to put their head through and graze. Make sure that all wire<br>ends, nails and other sharp objects are protected so that the cattle will not injure<br>themselves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nutrition<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dairy cattle drink 30-50 gallons per on the higher end when it&#8217;s hot. Dairy cattle require a<br>higher quality and nutritious diet to produce milk than beef cattle. A higher protein diet is<br>required to maintain the cow&#8217;s health and milk production. They require 2-3% of their body<br>weight per day in feed. This can consist of grass and alfalfa hay along with grain to achieve<br>the higher protein level they required.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dairy Nutrition and Feeding<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/animals-and-livestock\/dairy\/nutrition-and-feeding\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/animals-and-livestock\/dairy\/nutrition-and-feeding<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">CSU Extension Livestock &amp; Animals<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Real Raw Milk Facts<br><a href=\"https:\/\/realrawmilkfacts.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/realrawmilkfacts.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Horses\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Horses<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Many landowners buy their small acreages solely based on the ability to own a horse.<br>However, owning and caring properly for a horse is a large and expensive responsibility.<br>Careful thought and consideration should always be taken before purchasing a horse. The<br>average cost in the United States to maintain a horse is $3.17 per day ($1,200.00 per year).<br>This includes feed and veterinary services. Feed will cost a minimum of $400.00 per year<br>depending on hay prices. If you include facilities, tack, transportation, depreciation and<br>interest, then the average cost is $6.75 per day ($2,500.00 per year). If you plan to show or<br>hire a professional trainer, additional funds are needed. Your initial investment may be the<br>cheapest part of owning a horse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Facilities and Fencing<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A two or three-sided wind shelter with a roof and plenty of dry bedding may be adequate,<br>even in cold climates. You may opt for an enclosed barn with box stalls (at least 12 feet by<br>12 feet), a tack room and a feed room or hay storage area. Several fencing materials are<br>suitable for horses including poles, rails, or boards for smaller areas, such as paddocks.<br>For pasture areas consider using smooth wire, woven wire, or electric fencing. Avoid<br>barbed wire or large opening woven wire. The fence should be 5 feet tall and easily visible to<br>the horse. Electric fencing is economical and convenient, especially for dividing irrigated<br>pastures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Feeding<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The average horse in good physical condition consumes from 1.5-4 % of its body weight in<br>air dry feed per day depending on activity level. For example, a 1,000-pound horse can<br>consume 15 to 40 pounds of feed per day. Most light work horses get along nicely on good<br>quality grass. Other supplements or higher quality grass and alfalfa hay are usually not<br>necessary, except for pregnant and lactating mares, young horses (aged two years or less),<br>hardworking, and geriatric horses. As with all livestock, having access to clean, not frozen<br>water is critical to horses&#8217; health.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Buying a Horse<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">When buying a horse, first you must decide what you want. First-time buyers should look at<br>purchasing a four-year-old, or older, well broke, started, or trained gelding or mare. For<br>pleasure and leisure riding, avoid ponies, which are horses less than 14 hands tall, and<br>avoid draft breeds. Common breeds to ride found in Colorado are Arabian, Appaloosa,<br>Morgan, Paint, Pinto, Quarter Horse and Thoroughbred. However, a grade horse (not<br>registered) may also fit your needs. Purchase your horse from a reputable breeder or<br>trainer. Ask many questions and then some, because very few horses come with a<br>guarantee. Also, once a horse is brought home and placed in a different environment, its<br>behavior can change.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Basic First Aid and Emergencies<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are many types of emergencies that horse owners can experience. Anything from<br>heat stroke to bone fractures to snake bites to foaling difficulties to colic and puncture<br>wounds can happen without warning. Regardless of any situation, here are a few points to<br>remember:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Keep the horse and yourself as calm as possible.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Move the animal to a safe area where it is unlikely to get injured should it go<br>down.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Get someone to help you and then delegate responsibilities, such as calling the<br>Veterinarian, retrieving the first aid kit, holding the horse, etc.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Notify the Veterinarian immediately if the situation warrants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Listen closely and follow your equine practitioner&#8217;s instructions.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Do not administer drugs, especially tranquilizers or sedatives, unless specifically<br>instructed to do so by the Veterinarian.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<h5 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Resources<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">CSU Extension Livestock &amp; Animals<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Oregon State Horse Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/horses\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/horses<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Rabies in Horses<br><a href=\"https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01819.pdf\">https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01819.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Stretching Your Horse\u2019s Hay Supply During Drought<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01625.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01625.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Poultry\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Poultry<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Chickens, Ducks, Geese and Turkeys<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Managing a home poultry flock can be rewarding and the entire family can participate in<br>flock care. Successful management begins with planning. For that reason, you need to<br>make several decisions before you start your flock including the desired flock size and do<br>you want the birds for meat or eggs. How many eggs a day you wish to have along with any<br>municipal, homeowner&#8217;s association or county regulations determine the number of birds.<br>Most chicken breeds produce around 200 eggs per year while ducks produce between 50<br>to 300 eggs per year depending on the breed and geese produce 20 to 100 eggs per year<br>depending on breed. Geese are primarily spring layers and are affected more by seasonal<br>changes than chickens. If you are a baker, you might want to consider raising a few ducks<br>as they have larger yolks making them more desirable for baking. Typically, a chicken lays<br>one egg every 26 hours during the longer days and are less consistent during the winter<br>months. If a family wishes to have three to four eggs per day, then they would need six<br>hens. If you wish to sell eggs, you need additional hens. You do not need to have a rooster<br>unless you want to have fertilized eggs. Chickens egg production peaks the first 2 -3 years<br>and declines after that. At that time, a decision needs to be made whether to keep birds<br>past their laying prime or to sell or slaughter them.<br><br>Ducks take naps throughout the day rather than sleeping through the night. They can be<br>quite noisy anytime of the day or night. Placing a light in the coop can help keep them<br>quieter and making neighbors happier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing, Facilities and Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Housing is one of the most important factors in proper poultry care. Poultry houses, runs,<br>and yards are as diverse as the people who raise them.<br><br>Some considerations should include: is there proper ventilation and shelter from harsh<br>elements and predators; is there plenty of room for feed, water, nesting boxes, and roosts,<br>is there easy access to the coop for cleaning and disinfecting. Construction and fencing<br>should be carefully designed and chosen to prevent predators such as skunks, raccoons,<br>foxes, hawks, owls, and the neighbor&#8217;s dogs from accessing your birds. Coops must have<br>solid floors (concrete is ideal as it can be disinfected) and the fencing around covered runs<br>should be buried at least 12 inches in the ground. Coops must be kept clean and<br>disinfected and proper ventilation is a must for your coop. During the winter months, coops<br>can be insulated from wind and cold. Make sure birds cannot get access to insulation and<br>protect wiring by placing it out of reach or place it in conduit. Heat lights and heated water<br>can be used to add extra warmth for extremely cold days.<br><br>Each average size laying hen requires 2 to 3 square feet of coop floor space and 10 square<br>feet in the run. Ducks require 4-6 square feet, geese need 3-5 square feet and turkeys 3-5<br>square feet per bird interior space. Ducks and geese thrive and are healthier with a pond,<br>the more pond surface area the better. Ducks and geese require water to clean their bills,<br>eyes and nostrils. The pond helps keep them cleaner, increase egg fertility, survive extreme<br>temperatures, evade predators and a place to play and burn off energy. If you don&#8217;t have a<br>pond and want to use a tank, you need to use one that has hard sides. Do not try to use a<br>children&#8217;s swimming pool. You need to periodically clean the pool out so that it doesn&#8217;t<br>smell and to prevent disease. Depending on the tank size if you use one instead of a pond,<br>you may also want to add ramp into the tank and one in the tank so that the birds and other<br>wildlife, i.e. bats, can get out of the tank. You need 6-9 square feet of surface water per<br>duck. If you have an outside run, it should be twice as big as the coop. Covered protective<br>runs are great when owners cannot keep a watchful eye over their birds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Nesting Boxes and Roosts<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">You need 1 nesting box per 3-5 birds for chickens. Nesting boxes need to be a little over 1<br>square foot for chickens, 2 \u00bc square feet for ducks and 4 square feet for geese and turkeys.<br>Nesting boxes for ducks, geese and turkeys can be on the ground where chicken roosting<br>boxes need to be above ground level (18 to 20 inches). Roosts should allow 12 inches per<br>chicken and be higher than the nesting boxes. Roosts for turkeys should be 18 to 24 inches<br>off the ground. In the wild, turkeys roost in trees.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One chicken eats 6 to 10 pounds of feed per month, a duck 10-16 pounds per month, a<br>goose 15-25 pounds per month and a turkey 20-30 pounds per month. Feed and water<br>should be raised off the ground, filled and cleaned and disinfected daily. Complete feeds<br>can be purchased and provide complete nutritional requirements. Raising your own feed<br>requires testing to determine nutritional value of each component and takes more time to<br>process and mix correctly to provide complete nutrition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Eggs<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Be sure to collect eggs at least twice daily (three times is better, twice in the morning and<br>once in late afternoon) to prevent dirty, broken, or frozen eggs. Plastic coated wire baskets<br>or plastic egg cartons are best for collecting eggs. You need to clean and disinfect the<br>collection baskets just as you clean and disinfect cartons. Discard any eggs that are<br>cracked or broken. Despite all your efforts, you will still get some dirty eggs. When you are<br>collecting eggs, the dirty eggs should be placed in a separate container so that you don&#8217;t<br>contaminate the clean eggs. You can clean all the eggs at day&#8217;s end. You don&#8217;t have to<br>wash all the eggs; you can remove some dirt and debris with an emery cloth, fine<br>sandpaper or a brush. Clean eggs do not have to be washed.<br><br>Although they appear solid, eggshells have minute holes in them to allow air to enter the<br>egg. This affects how you should wash your eggs. When washing eggs, it is best to use<br>water between 110 degrees Fahrenheit and 120 degrees Fahrenheit or at least 20 degrees<br>Fahrenheit warmer than the eggs. The principle behind this is to get the egg contents to<br>expand preventing contaminants\/pathogens from entering the eggs. Using cooler water<br>shrinks the contents creating a vacuum that then allows contaminants\/pathogens to enter<br>the holes in the eggshell. Eggs should be washed individually using water and non-foaming,<br>unscented detergent and then rinsed in clean water. Make sure you use an unscented<br>detergent as the scented detergent may give the eggs an off taste. If you have a larger flock,<br>the washing solution should be cleaned every 3 to 4 dozen eggs. Eggs should never be<br>soaked in the water. To make a sanitizing solution for use after washing, mix 1 gallon of 120<br>degrees Fahrenheit water with 1 ounce (1 tablespoon) of bleach. Either dip or spray the<br>eggs with the sanitizing solution. After cleaning and sanitizing the eggs, dry the eggs<br>thoroughly on a rack and refrigerate them. Any containers that you use to store the eggs<br>should be either new or one that can be thoroughly disinfected (i.e. plastic re-usable egg<br>cartons that can be put in a dishwasher). Re-using store bought fiber containers is not a<br>good idea. Eggs should be stored in the main area of the refrigerator not in the door. The<br>main part of the refrigerator should be 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit while the door can be<br>warmer. Eggs stored properly can have a safe shelf life of 3 weeks. Make sure that you date<br>the container so that you use older eggs first. If your birds are producing more eggs than<br>you can use, you can freeze them. Only freeze fresh eggs. Break the eggs out of their shells,<br>beat them adding a small amount of salt, sugar or corn syrup to preserve quality and<br>prevent gelling. Place them in containers dating them and noting the number of eggs. You<br>can also freeze whites and yolk separately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Caring for Baby Birds (chicks, ducklings, poults)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Purchase birds from a commercial hatchery or reputable breeder. Birds from these sources<br>are generally free of disease and vaccinated for Marek&#8217;s disease. Raising your own birds is<br>not that difficult, but you need a rooster and additional equipment: heat lamp, chick<br>waterer, chick feeder and a protective area (livestock troughs work well).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock &amp; Animals, CSU Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><br>Poultry, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/poultry\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/poultry\/<\/a><br>Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI), CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/highly-pathogenic-avian-influenza-hpai\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/highly-pathogenic-avian-influenza-hpai\/<\/a><br>Poultry Resources, Oregon State Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/search?search=poultry\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/search?search=poultry<\/a><br>Common Infectious Diseases in Backyard Poultry, Merck Veterinary Manual<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.merckvetmanual.com\/exotic-and-laboratory-animals\/backyardpoultry\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.merckvetmanual.com\/exotic-and-laboratory-animals\/backyardpoultry\/<\/a><br>common-infectious-diseases-in-backyard-poultry<br>Keeping Layers for the Family Egg Supply, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02510.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02510.pdf<\/a><br>Raising Poultry the Organic Way: Disease Control and Feeding, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/raising-poultry-the-organic-way-disease-controland-\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/raising-poultry-the-organic-way-disease-controland-<\/a><br>feeding\/<br>Brooding and Space Requirements for Poultry, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/fremont.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/40\/2019\/03\/Broodingof-\">https:\/\/fremont.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/40\/2019\/03\/Broodingof-<\/a><br>chickens.pdf<br>Risk Management &amp; Animal Biosecurity, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/risk-mitigation\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/risk-mitigation\/<\/a><br>Backyard Poultry, CDC Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/healthy-pets\/about\/backyard-poultry.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/healthy-pets\/about\/backyard-poultry.html<\/a><br>Egg Producers, Colorado Department of Agriculture<br><a href=\"https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/egg-producers\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/ag.colorado.gov\/egg-producers<\/a><br>Backyard and Small Flock Poultry in Boulder County, Boulder County Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/boulder.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/7\/2020\/04\/Poultrybrochure-\">https:\/\/boulder.extension.colostate.edu\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/7\/2020\/04\/Poultrybrochure-<\/a><br>2020.pdf<br>Vaccination Program for Chickens in Colorado, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02501.pdf\">https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02501.pdf<\/a><br>Ailments of Turkeys and Other Fowl, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02506.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/02506.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h3 id=\"Swine\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Swine<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Contrary to the stereotype, pigs are the cleanest and smartest of all farm animals. They<br>require little space and can produce an average of 150 pounds of pork products in five to<br>six months. They can however grow quite large and while a finished market hog may only<br>weigh 250 pounds, a two-year-old sow can weigh 500 pounds. Most pigs are cross-breeds<br>for improved genetics. Hampshire, Berkshire, Duroc and Landrace are meat breeds;<br>Yorkshires are known for their maternal traits. Buy at least two pigs of similar age and<br>weight at a time to keep each other company, preferably from a single source. Pigs are<br>weaned at about four weeks of age; sold at six to eight weeks; and weigh 20 to 30 pounds at<br>six weeks; and 30 to 40 pounds at eight weeks. Piglets should be eating dry food on their<br>own at six weeks.<br><br>There are 3 different types of swine operations: farrow (birth) to finish (slaughter), farrow to<br>feeder and feeder to finish. For most small acreage owners, the feeder to finish may be the<br>best option as it requires the least time and equipment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing, Facilities and Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Simple housing is enough if pigs are purchased in spring and are butchered prior to winter.<br>However, build a good solid fence, or use electric fence as they may try to escape. Once<br>trained, pigs respect the wire. Electric fence is portable; however, it may be a problem for<br>young pigs, because the wire must be low to the ground. Two strands are necessary for<br>young pigs. The bottom wire should be placed a bit lower than snout height; the top wire<br>placed a bit lower than the pigs&#8217; height. Adjust the wire height as needed to accommodate<br>the piglets&#8217; rapid growth. Fences must be four feet high. A 200-pound pig can scale a lower<br>fence. For young pigs, space wires or boards four inches apart or less. Pigs root, so bottom<br>boards or wire must be buried six inches deep to prevent rooting under the fence. They are<br>very intelligent and take advantage of any flaw in the fencing. Pigs need shade to prevent<br>overheating and sunburn. This is why they cover themselves in mud, it&#8217;s their sunscreen.<br>Elaborate structures are not needed, but dependable shade is a requirement. Pigs require<br>1.5-2 feet of feeding space per animal. Use a non-tipping feeder, since pigs love to turn<br>their dishes over. Self-feeders and self-waterers designed for pigs are commercially<br>available and offer constant supplies of food and water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pigs need a balanced diet, much like humans, including proteins, carbohydrates, fats,<br>mineral salts, vitamins, and water. Most commercial pig feeds are &#8220;complete&#8221; feeds,<br>containing all the nutrients needed. Two pigs grow faster and more economically than one.<br>From weaning to processing weight, you will need 600 to 1,500 pounds of commercial feed<br>per animal. They require 1-3 gallons of water per day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock &amp; Animals, CSU Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><br>Swine, Oregon State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/swine\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/swine<\/a><br>About Influenza in Swine, CDC Swine\/Variant Influenza<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/swine-flu\/about\/influenza-in-swine.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/swine-flu\/about\/influenza-in-swine.html<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h3 id=\"Sheep\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Sheep<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sheep production is popular in Colorado (Colorado is #1 in lamb production in the United<br>States). Sheep are well-suited to this area and can provide two crops: lamb (meat) and<br>wool. First determine the carrying capacity of your acreage; then determine your market<br>goals. Market options include freezer lambs, breeding stock, weaned lambs or wool. The<br>desired marketing option determines the breed or breeds you select. If wool production is<br>your goal, choose a fine wool breed, such as Rambouillet or Merino. These breeds are<br>rugged, adaptable, have a long breeding season and excellent herding instincts, and are<br>long-lived; but they do not produce a heavily muscled carcass. If your goal is both wool and<br>meat, select a medium wool breed, such as Columbia, Targhee or Polypay. Medium wool<br>breed lambs grow faster and have better body conformation, as well as good herding<br>instincts; however, they require more feed and have a shorter breeding season than fine<br>wool breeds. Meat breeds were developed primarily for lamb production and populate<br>many farm flocks. Suffolk and Hampshire are the most popular meat breeds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing and Facilities<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sheep need protection during wet and cold weather, and ewes and lambs need a dry, draftfree<br>shelter for lambing. A shed or barn with a dirt floor that opens to the south makes a<br>good sheep shelter. If you have a problem with predators, you need to provide a more<br>substantial shelter so you can secure your animals at night. Provide the best fences you<br>can for your sheep to reduce predation by coyotes and dogs. Many different material types<br>can be used for sheep fencing. Barbed wire is not effective. A 4-foot woven wire fence is<br>good just make sure they can&#8217;t put their head through the wires or a 5-7 high tensile strand<br>wire fences with 2 strands of electric wires works well. Predator control animals can be<br>utilized effectively; however careful consideration must be made before purchasing a<br>predator control animal. Determine which species is best for your situation. Guard dogs<br>can be a great tool in large pastures however; they can be a threat to neighbors. Llamas<br>and donkeys are also good predator control animals if they aren&#8217;t a nuisance to neighbors<br>or visitors. When using any guard animal, the herd and the guard animal need to bond for<br>the guard animal to be effective. Sheep take less labor than other livestock and do well with<br>low-cost housing and equipment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Feeding<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Sheep can generally meet their nutrient requirements by utilizing high-quality pasture. They<br>require 2-3% of their body weight in forage per day. During the winter, an ewe can be<br>maintained on three to three and one-half pounds of good-quality hay daily. During the last<br>six weeks of pregnancy, additional nutrients are required.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock &amp; Animals, CSU Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><br>Sheep and Goats, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/sheep-and-goats\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/sheep-and-goats\/<\/a><br>Sheep and Goat Resources, Oregon State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/sheep-goats\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/sheep-goats<\/a><br>Sheep Production &amp; Management, New Mexico State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/aces-newmexicosheep.nmsu.edu\/index.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/aces-newmexicosheep.nmsu.edu\/index.html<\/a><br>Sheep Production Handbook, Premier 1<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.premier1supplies.com\/p\/sid-sheep-production-handbook\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.premier1supplies.com\/p\/sid-sheep-production-handbook<\/a><br>Nitrate Poisoning, CSU Extension Fact sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/nitrate-poisoning\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/nitrate-poisoning\/<\/a><br>Prussic Acid Poisoning, South Dakota State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.sdstate.edu\/prussic-acid-poisoning\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.sdstate.edu\/prussic-acid-poisoning<\/a><br>Enterotoxemia in Sheep and Goats, University of Georgia<br><a href=\"https:\/\/vet.uga.edu\/enterotoxemia-in-sheep-and-goats\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/vet.uga.edu\/enterotoxemia-in-sheep-and-goats\/<\/a><br>Internal Parasites in Sheep and Goats, Oregon State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/smallfarms.oregonstate.edu\/sites\/agscid7\/files\/em9055.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/smallfarms.oregonstate.edu\/sites\/agscid7\/files\/em9055.pdf<\/a><br>Market Lamb Project Guide: Nutrition, Mississippi State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.msstate.edu\/sites\/default\/files\/publications\/P2478.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.msstate.edu\/sites\/default\/files\/publications\/P2478.pdf<\/a><br>Pregnancy Toxemia (Ketosis) in Ewes and Does, The Ohio State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/u.osu.edu\/sheep\/2021\/01\/12\/pregnancy-toxemia-ketosis-in-ewes-and-does\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/u.osu.edu\/sheep\/2021\/01\/12\/pregnancy-toxemia-ketosis-in-ewes-and-does\/<\/a><br>About Q Fever, CDC<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/q-fever\/about\/index.html\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.cdc.gov\/q-fever\/about\/index.html<\/a><br>Feed Composition for Cattle and Sheep, CSU Extension Fact sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01615.pdf\">https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01615.pdf<\/a><br>Formulating Rations with the Pearson Square, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/nydairyadmin.cce.cornell.edu\/uploads\/doc_728.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/nydairyadmin.cce.cornell.edu\/uploads\/doc_728.pdf<\/a><br>Glossary of Wool and Fiber Terms, CSU Extension Fact sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/glossary-of-wool-and-fiber-terms\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/glossary-of-wool-and-fiber-terms\/<\/a><br>Grades and Lengths of Grease Wool, CSU Extension Fact sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01401.pdf\">https:\/\/jeffco.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/livestk\/01401.pdf<\/a><br>Management of Sheep and Goats Through Drought, The Ohio State University<br><a href=\"https:\/\/u.osu.edu\/sheep\/2024\/10\/22\/management-of-sheep-and-goats-through-drought\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/u.osu.edu\/sheep\/2024\/10\/22\/management-of-sheep-and-goats-through-drought\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Goats\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Goats<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Increasingly goats are finding homes on small acreages as well as in some urban<br>backyards. Goats&#8217; popularity is due to their size and ability to utilize very low-quality browse<br>and weeds. In fact, many weed control districts are using them as weed management<br>tools. There are three types of goats found in the United States: fiber, dairy, and meat goats.<br>The key management issues for a successful goat enterprise are fencing, parasite and<br>predator control and marketing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Types of Goats<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Meat goats fit in well with other enterprises, particularly cattle operations, and may be used<br>to help manage noxious weeds and brush to improve pastures for other livestock. The<br>increasing economic importance of meat goat production in the United States can be<br>attributed both to a strong ethnic demand for goat meat, and to an interest in ecologicallysound<br>forms of vegetation management. Meat goats can be raised with very little<br>supplemental grain, and with minimal shelter, and are generally an easy-care animal. Meat<br>goat breeds are Spanish, Boer, Kiko, Mytonic (fainting), Savanna(h) and Texmaster.<br><br>Dairy goats fit well into operations where milk is the desired product. Dairy breeds are<br>Alpine, Guernsey, LaMancha, Oberhasli, Sable, Nigerian dwarf, Nubian, Saanen and<br>Toggenburg. If milk production is important, feed maximum amounts of high-quality hay<br>balanced with a grain ration containing enough protein, minerals and vitamins to support<br>production and animal health. Local producers have found favor with locally produced<br>artisan cheese producers and people with lactose intolerance find goat&#8217;s milk a great<br>alternative to cow&#8217;s milk. Like dairy cows, dairy goats must be bred periodically to continue<br>producing and the kid must be dealt with either kept as a replacement, sold or slaughtered.<br>If you want goats so that you can utilize the milk without processing (raw milk), make sure<br>that you know and understand the risks involved with raw milk and all the steps you can<br>take to protect you and your family from foodborne illnesses.<br><br>Fiber goats (Cashmere and Angora) are also popular in Colorado. Cashmere goats produce<br>a very fine down undercoat that can be brushed out and is extremely soft. Angoras produce<br>Mohair, a product that can be shorn twice a year and is more durable, warmer and less<br>inclined to shrink than sheep wool. Check in your area for a wool cooperative if you plan to<br>sell the wool.<br>Two other goat types are packing and weed management. Packing goats are used to pack<br>supplies for backpacking trips and are breeds such as Alpine, Toggenburg, Saanen,<br>LaMancha and Oberhasli. Extra time is required to train the goats to be pack animals. Since<br><br>they are foragers, finding food along the trail is not difficult. There aren&#8217;t specific breeds<br>identified for weed management. Many municipalities use goats to graze weeds located in<br>areas that are not accessible to equipment or unsafe for personnel to spray. The goats are<br>only another tool in the weed management toolbox.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing, Facilities and Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Housing needs for goats are very simple and, in moderate climates, may consist of natural<br>cover, such as thick trees and brush, or rock ledges. Goats do, however, need protection<br>from rain (they don&#8217;t like to be in the rain), cold wind and snow. A sturdy shed open to the<br>south or opposite prevailing winds, with a rear eave height of four to six feet and a front<br>eave height of six to eight feet with enough dry, clean bedding helps conserve body heat.<br>For night shelter, allow five square feet per goat. If predators are a problem in your area, you<br>need to provide a more substantial structure so you can secure your animals in a barn at<br>night. You can try using a guard animal like you would for sheep.<br><br>Goats have a propensity to try to escape fences. A sturdy 48-inch woven wire fence (make<br>sure they can&#8217;t get their heads stuck in the openings) with or without a strand of electric<br>wire at the top should work. Providing them with play items to jump on and over can help<br>keep them entertained and inside the fence.<br><br>They need 2-3% of their body weight in feed per day. Commercial goat feeds are available<br>and provide a fully balanced diet. Goats are browsers rather than grazers meaning that they<br>prefer broadleaf plants over grasses. Pastures need to be a mix of both grasses and forbs to<br>provide a balanced diet. Be aware of potentially poisonous plants in the pasture and deal<br>with those before allowing animals to graze.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Livestock &amp; Animals, CSU Extension Resources<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/topics\/livestock-and-animals\/<\/a><br>Sheep and Goats, CSU Extension Fact Sheet<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/sheep-and-goats\/\">https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/resource\/sheep-and-goats\/<\/a><br>Sheep and Goat Resources, Oregon State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/sheep-goats\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/sheep-goats<\/a><br>Meat Goat Production, Pennsylvania State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/meat-goat-production\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/meat-goat-production<\/a><br>Dairy Goat Production, Pennsylvania State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/dairy-goat-production\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/dairy-goat-production<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h3 id=\"Llamas-and-Alpacas\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Llamas and Alpacas<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Llamas and alpacas are easy to keep, lower maintenance animals. They have become<br>popular for pack animals (llamas) and for their wool (alpacas). They are herd animals, so<br>you need at least two to keep them happy and healthy. They require minimal care and can<br>do well on native rangeland plants. All members of the camelid family use a specific<br>location for their manure deposition which make manure cleanup easier. As with most<br>livestock, working with and handling them makes them easier to handle when you need to<br>vaccinate or shear them. Training builds the animal&#8217;s trust.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing, Facilities and Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">They don&#8217;t try to escape fences like goats so a basic 48-inch woven wire livestock fence<br>contains them. You may want to add an electric wire to deter predators. Most predators do<br>not attack an adult animal, they attack crias (babies). While they only need a 3-sided<br>roofed enclosure, some owners may prefer to provide them with a barn. Being a herd<br>animal, they don&#8217;t require individual stalls but providing a way to separate the barn is useful<br>if you are breeding animals. They do well on a wide variety of forages and only require 1.8-<br>2% of their body weight in forage per day. While a grass pasture with some legumes in it can<br>be enough, you may want to supplement this with pellets balanced for camelids. Grass hay<br>should test 8-10% protein. As with all livestock, they must have access to clean unfrozen<br>water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Camelid Resources, Healthy Farms Healthy Agriculture<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.healthyagriculture.org\/livestock\/camelids\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.healthyagriculture.org\/livestock\/camelids\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h2 id=\"Rabbits\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Rabbits<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Rabbits make good animals to have on small properties and for 4-H projects. They can be<br>raised just for the fun of it or they can be used for their fur (angora breed) or for meat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Fencing, Facilities and Feed<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To keep them healthy, it&#8217;s best to keep them in a climate-controlled area. The hutch should<br>be at least 18 inches high, and the floor space needs to be \u00be square feet per pound of<br>mature weight of your rabbit breed. The floor and sides should be made of \u00bd inch by 1 inch<br>wire mesh while the floor should be \u00bd inch by \u00bd inch mesh. You can try to formulate your<br>own hay and grain ration but purchasing a pre-formulated pellet most likely be more<br>convenient and provide a better-balanced diet. Providing them a leafy green treat<br>periodically is fine, just don&#8217;t make it most of their diet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Poultry and Rabbit Resources, Oregon State University Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/poultry-rabbits\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/extension.oregonstate.edu\/animals-livestock\/poultry-rabbits<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity is-style-simple\"\/>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-group is-layout-constrained wp-block-group-is-layout-constrained\">\n<h3 id=\"Bees\" class=\"wp-block-heading\">Bees<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">While most people do not consider bees as livestock, they are under certain<br>circumstances. A single hive is a hobby, but multiple hives can be a livestock operation.<br><br>Some people get into beekeeping thinking that they can save pollinators. This is not the<br>best reason to get into beekeeping. While they don&#8217;t take a lot of work, they do need routine<br>checks. They are just like keeping any other livestock or pet. A better strategy might be for<br>you to provide the forage plants for nearby native pollinators and local beekeepers. Lack of<br>good forage forces native pollinators and honeybees to compete for limited food sources.<br><br>One major consideration before getting into beekeeping is do you have enough forage<br>(flowering plants) around your property all growing season (early spring to late fall) to keep<br>a hive healthy. Do you have wildlife that visits your property that would love to break into<br>your hives, i.e. bears? If you don&#8217;t have enough forage for your bees, you end up<br>supplementing their forage. Remember that the bees need forage from early spring through<br>fall. A sudden burst of flowering plants from June to August is not enough to keep a hive fed<br>and healthy. Your bees will also be competing with native bees for their forage. A variety of<br>plants blooming at different times is better than a monoculture (i.e. and alfalfa field) to<br>provide all the nutrients they need to be healthy.<br><br>Beginning beekeepers should work with an experienced beekeeper or take a class to learn<br>how to care for their hives. This is an expensive hobby to get into and if you want to be<br>successful, you need to know what you are doing.<br><br>Unless you can get a swarm from an existing beekeeper, you need to order your hive and<br>queen in the spring. The hive should be set up and ready before your bees arrive. There are<br>different types of bees so do your homework to figure out what type of bees and queen suit<br>your area and beekeeping method.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">References:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><em>The Beekeeper\u2019s Handbook<\/em>, Diana Sammataro<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Feeding Honey Bees in Colorado, CSU Extension<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/insect\/05622.pdf\">https:\/\/www.extension.colostate.edu\/docs\/pubs\/insect\/05622.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Colorado Beekeepers Association<br><a href=\"https:\/\/coloradobeekeepers.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/coloradobeekeepers.org\/<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">American Beekeeping Federation<br><a href=\"https:\/\/www.abfnet.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">https:\/\/www.abfnet.org\/<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In this section, we\u2019ll provide some basic information and resources for various livestock species. Introduction One of the first things to consider when entertaining the idea of&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":45,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"template":"","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"area_tax":[],"county_tax":[],"global-category_tax":[],"global-offering_tax":[],"global-sub-category_tax":[],"global-topic_tax":[],"region_tax":[],"resource-type_tax":[],"class_list":["post-1836","resource-cpt","type-resource-cpt","status-publish","hentry"],"pp_statuses_selecting_workflow":false,"pp_workflow_action":"current","pp_status_selection":"publish","pp_force_visibility":null,"pp_subpost_visibility":null,"pp_inherited_force_visibility":null,"pp_inherited_subpost_visibility":null,"pp_post_mime_type":"","acf":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/resource-cpt\/1836","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/resource-cpt"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/resource-cpt"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/45"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/resource-cpt\/1836\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1863,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/resource-cpt\/1836\/revisions\/1863"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1836"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"area_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/area_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"county_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/county_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"global-category_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/global-category_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"global-offering_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/global-offering_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"global-sub-category_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/global-sub-category_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"global-topic_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/global-topic_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"region_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/region_tax?post=1836"},{"taxonomy":"resource-type_tax","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.colostate.edu\/boulder\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/resource-type_tax?post=1836"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}