Saving Seed

Introduction

The art of saving seeds has been practiced by gardeners long before there were commercial seed producers. In fact, most of the vegetables and flowers we have today owe their existence to the fact that these early gardeners, with an eye for quality, saved the seeds of their best plants, sowed them the next year, and improved the species. 

In recent years, maintaining and improving vegetable seeds has been assumed by seed companies; however, it is still possible for home gardeners to save their own seeds. To do so successfully, they must be familiar with the basics. 

Plants in the garden come from either seeds or transplants. True seed possesses an embryo in a dormant state. Under the right conditions, it breaks dormancy and produces a plant based on its genetic makeup. Transplants, on the other hand, are living plants or plant parts that begin to grow under favorable conditions without the benefit of an embryo. Bulbs, tubers, corms, cuttings (“slips”), and whole living plants are in this group. 

It is still common practice for home gardeners to dig dahlia and gladiolus before the ground freezes. However, it is not common for gardeners to save the seeds of flowers and vegetables. This is perhaps because seeds are relatively inexpensive, and seed producers have a reputation for selling seeds that germinate well and are true to the variety named on the package. Before saving seed, consider the method of pollination, the time of seed bearing, whether the plant is a hybrid, and the manner of seed collection. 

Pollination Methods

There are three pollination methods of concern to the home gardener: air-borne, insect, and self. If the seed produced has the same genetic composition as its parents, it must be pollinated with pollen from the same variety. In the case of airborne pollinated crops, there must be no other varieties within a mile shedding pollen at the same time. If there is, some of the harvested seed will result from a cross between these two varieties. The closer the varieties are located, the higher the percentage of crossing. 

If a crop is insect-pollinated, a 1/4-mile is recommended for separating varieties. Otherwise, some of the seeds saved may result from the crossing of the varieties located within this 1/4-mile radius. 

Self-pollinated crops offer the best opportunity for a home gardener to save seed because the pollen is transferred directly to the stigma within the flower. Even though this occurs automatically, some pollen escapes and can be transferred to an adjacent variety. To avoid this, separate varieties by a few rows of another crop. 

These requirements are closely observed by commercial seed producers, who are much more concerned about trueness-to variety than the average home gardener. However, if home gardeners ignore these guides, they will be disappointed in the results. 

How Vegetables Are Pollinated

Airborne pollen vegetables 

Beets	Spinach
Corn	Swiss chard

Insect-borne pollen vegetables 

Asparagus	Kohlrabi
Broccoli	Melons
Brussels sprouts	Mustard
Cabbage	Onions
Carrots	Parsley
Cauliflower	Parsnips
Celeriac	Peppers
Celery	Pumpkin
Chinese cabbage	Squash
Collards	Radishes
Cucumber	Rutabaga
Eggplant	Turnips
Kale

Self-pollinated vegetables

Beans	Lettuce
Chicory	Peas
Endive	Tomatoes

Biennial vegetables

Beets	Kohlrabi
Brussels sprouts	Leeks
Cabbage	Onions
Carrots	Parsley
Celeriac	Parsnips
Celery	Radishes, winter
Collards	Rutabaga
Florence fennel	Salsify
Kale	Swiss chard
	Turnips

Root Crops

Not all garden plants produce their seed at the end of the growing season. The most noteworthy exceptions are the biennials. This group, which includes most of the root crops, grows vegetatively in the first season. To obtain seed, the roots are dug in the fall and stored between 32 and 45 degrees F through the winter. As soon as the weather permits, replant the roots to produce seed stalks and seeds. 

Hybrids

Seed producers have developed ingenious equipment for harvesting, extracting, and cleaning seeds. The home gardener, however, will have to do with available utensils. The seed is extracted from the fruit after it ripens and before it rots. Leave summer squash and cucumbers on the vine until after frost, like winter squash and pumpkin. Separate the seeds from their pulp and dry at room temperature. 

Leave pod crops on the vine until the pod dries. Harvest before the seed is dispersed. Similarly, harvest seed heads after they dry but before dispersal. 

Storage

Once the seed is dried, gently rub it to rid it of any chaff, then store it in an envelope in a cool, dry, rodent-free place. The seed will germinate best the following year. Thereafter, its germination percentage declines by the storage conditions, seed type, and original seed quality. It is, therefore, best to replant every year and then select the best plants for seed. 

Reference: CSU Fact Sheet 7.602